Jamaica Tours, Guides and Vacations

Here is a wonderful set of photos taken from the Negril Cliffs which features one of my favorite Jamaican fisherman out in the early morning as the sun rises on yet another beautiful Jamaica day. I watched this guy fish the local waters off and on for over a year before I settled to take his photo without his permission. I probably could have found him and asked him for it but it was nice to chat with him as he went on about his day completely oblivious to me while I sat and watched him from the seaside cliffs of a Negril resort in amazement at his strength and determination. Some of these Jamaica fisherman seem as old as the sea itself but do not be fooled, these guys are hard as stone and stronger than any two average men you know. They have been fishing these waters for over 50 years in many cases and pulled enough traps to feed a family for longer than I have been alive.

I was almost always amused and sometimes disgusted with how different our lives are and how as I sit there with my digital camera from the deck of my resort accommodations I can peer out into the distance and witness a real man working for a living from a hand carved dugout while I blog about my daily adventures and smoked a few spliffs over a cup of Blue Mountain Coffee in the comfort of my private room overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

It’s a sick and twisted world we live in and the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence but I would gladly trade my experiences and knowledge for his.

Here are some photos of sunsets in Negril for Summer 2009. Negril sunsets are beautiful year round but something about summertime in Negril makes the sunsets more colorful and brilliant. Sunsets on the beach are nice but I prefer the West End Negril sunsets from great spots like Ricks Cafe and LTU Pub.

I was fortunate enough to make it to Reggae Sumfest again this year for the third year in row and it was an awesome event with three nights of simply the best in Jamaican musicians as well as top International performers who made this the best Sumfest I have been to yet. Here is my review of Reggae Sumfest 2009 for Thursday night.

Thursday night is always Dancehall night at Sumfest and this year it was a powerhouse lineup with some of the biggest and hottest names on the Dancehall scene performing on one stage on the same night. It was evident things were going to be different this year as the vibe was more subdued and many major changes were made in the format over years past. The recession hit Sumfest and lots of things were scaled back which seemed to hurt the production which was packed with delays and setbacks but certainly did not curb the enthusiasm or caliber of performers on stage. The Jamaican government had to kick in $500,000US to make sure the show went on but it’s a fair price for the amount of money Sumfest injects into the local economy.

The entire music industry was rocked by the tragic death of Michael Jackson and this years events were in tribute to him and his music and the stars really took to it in force with most of them offering their respects at the least and many of them paying tribute in song during their performances.

Despite the cutbacks there was no shortage of talent on stage and the line up was more of a whos who on the current and past dancehall charts. The night started early and was to run on until the sun came up so I chose to show up a little late in the evening and I was not able to catch the first acts of the evening and I regret missing performances by my good friends Nature and Charly Black but I was blessed to have backstage passes again and I was able to spend some time with them both back stage after their sets and thats always a lot of fun. Jamaican artists are very animated and hanging out with them is more like a party when you put a bunch of them together. They spend lots of time trying to upstage or outshine each other and the commentary and banter are a treat.

I arrived two hours into the show at 10pm and was able to catch I-Octane on stage for the last of his set and the beginning of Prodigal Son before I headed backstage for photos and videos with the stars. I made it back out front to catch the end of Voice Mail who always look good and sound great on stage. These guys should get an award for best dressed group because they have some serious shard looking style every time you see them. Macka Diamond was next on stage and the foul mouthed female gave us her most with a great performance thats just short of a sex show as she touches herself and gyrates in ways your mother wouldn’t approve of. Macka always gives a strong performance and this year was no exception. I was backstage for the beginning of D’Angels performance but able to catch the ending as I ran out front to get some photos. I missed much of Kip Rich and caught the end Demarco on stage before I headed backstage again for more photos.

The drawback to backstage passes is that you often miss out on much of the show as you wait your turn to take some pics or interview an artist. I chose to spend less time backstage and settle for a few pics than to spend the entire evening in the press tent waiting for artist interviews. Some people chose to enjoy Reggae Sumfest from a television monitor backstage but I much prefer the energy and excitement of the front of the stage. It’s all about the music to me but I do enjoy meeting and speaking to the artists when I can. It’s nice to know someone who’s music you respect and I feel it brings you closer to the music in a lot of ways.

Sumfest runs into the early morning of the following day and the main talent usually hits the stage after midnight. Thursday nights star lineup began with Spice who put on an amazing show and her tribute to Michael was one of the more unique and inspired. Check out Spice at Reggae Sumfest on YouTube for more but trust me it was high energy and unique to say the least. Spice took a different direction than many other artists and her tribute was not just her singing a Michael Jackson crowd as many did but her entire set had Thriller style dancers and other examples of his music and style. Spice has truly matured and her music reflects a new found strength and attitude which must come from the recent success she has had as a result of her popular collaboration with Vybz Kartel on Rompin Shop which is the #1 hit single and a smash on the dance floors across Jamaica.

Spice was followed up by Assassin who I missed while backstage but I was there for the Queen of Dancehall Lady Saw when she hit the stage and put on yet another raunchy performance as she proved once again she is the dirtiest female of them all and a force in the dancehall. Her set started out decidedly different and a woman behind me made the comment that Lady Saw had finally gown up but after one song she chnaged from her cutesy dress to a mans Zoot Suit where she proceeded to cup her groin and chant out hardcore lyrics about her pum pum. She got some foreign press agent from in front of the stage to stand before her as she forced him to slap her pum pum and since he didn’t speak english it was hilarious to watch the mess from so close. I don’t mind explicit lyrics from men or women but raunchy dirty foul mouthed garbage is not my favorite style and Lady Saw rides over the edge on occasion. Watch Lady Saw at Reggae Sumfest 2009 on YouTube!!

After Lady Saw it was the heavy hitters from Alliance with Bounty Killer, Mavado and Busy Signal as the next three acts. Bounty Killer had a very strong performance at Sumfest 2009 but he did acknowledge his diss at last years show when he attacked Ninjaman and his brother as batty men but it was once again a different kind of show this year with Bounty offering his respect to Ninjaman who sits in a Jamaican jail on serious charges for harboring a fugitive. At last years show it seemed that Bounty was more harsh and into the clash style and the crowd wasn’t into it as much and Bounty was actually booed at Sumfest 2008 for his lyrics and attack style. This year he kept the insults and attacks minimal and stuck to a hardcore performance and it worked out much better for him.

Bounty was followed up by his #1 protege and the rising star in dancehall Mavado who himself had a great year with hit singles like “So Special” hitting heavy rotation on the dance floors and inspiring Jay-Z to step out of retirement just to do a remix with the “Gully God”. Mavado is my personal favorite and his music has more crossover appeal than Vybz does when you consider more people can understand what he’s saying unlike Vybz who speaks more raw patois. Mavado has a link with the rasta culture and his many references to Jah and Jehovah seem to enhance his popularity. The problem he faces is that Mavado is a studio artist and his music is heavily synthesized which is difficult to play by a live backing band and his live performances with a band are weak in my opinion. I was not impressed with Mavado at Sumfest 2009 which was live but I stood on stage with him just one week later at The Jungle in Negril and he performed to a pre-recorded riddim track and it was a much better show. I would recommend to him he stick to the riddim track and forget live band performances.

Elephant Man came on stage after Mavado and put on another powerful performance that I was sad to miss most of as I was backstage fighting for an interview I never got with Mavado. It’s silly in a sense because I know people that know Mavado and I can probably get an interview with him whenever I wanted to but I ended up catching the end of Elephant Man performance and then I was able to link up with him backstage for a moment as well which made a difference when I saw him on stage at The Jungle the next week. He recognized me from Sumfest and proceeded to have some fun with my by having a girl jump on me and dance unexpectedly which was a shock to me and amusing to about 4000 people at the show.

I also expected a difference in the main performances and I was right. I knew it was going to be a Vybz Kartel night and it was. Vybz Kartel and his Portmore Empire have had an exceptional year since the 2008 performances and his rivalry with ex partner Bounty Killer and Killers Alliance has hit a high point as well with the clash reaching extremes and the entire country is now either Gaza or Gully with the “Gully God” Mavado from Alliance adding fuel to the fire as he blazes his own trail to the top of the Dancehall scene. Some are calling Mavado the new King of Dancehall and this sparked a fire in Beenie Man who has aligned himself with Vybz to defend his self proclaimed title of King of the Dancehall. Beenie seems to have put his weight behind it and got himself crowned the “King of Danceall” in a ceremony on stage this year at Sumfest where he was given a crown and robe in recognition of his contribution to Sumfest and reggae music by Johnny Gourzong the founder of Reggae Sumfest Productions.

Vybz Kartel and Beenie Man both put on strong performances but when the two of them hit the stage at the same time the place lit up with excitement and it was by far the high point of the might with 20,000 plus fans yelling and screaming approval. Beenie led the chants of “Gaza mi say” and the crowds followed him and it got pretty loud for awhile. They performed well together and it seemed a match made in heaven with the two of them benefiting greatly from the partnership. Beenie Man is known as weak amongst many in the new generation because his lyrics are more dance and pop with no gun or violence and his link to Vybz gives him some much needed cred with the gangsta wannabes on the dancehall scene. Vybz on the other had finds Beenie Man legitimizes some of his antics and gives him some respect to the older generation who have no idea what Gaza or Gully really are.

By this time of the night I was burnt and I had seen what I came to see. I rarely make it through to the very end and on this night I bailed out after Vybz and Beenie left the stage. Click here are a selection of pics and don’t forget to check my YouTube page for more videos from Reggae Sumfest 2009 or click any of the links above to see the individual artist videos.

Home > Jamaica Reggae Music Shows > Reggae Sumfest 2009 Thursday Dancehall Night Reggae Sumfest 2009 Thursday Dancehall Night Set list from Reggae Sumfest 2009 Set list from Reggae Sumfest 2009 I-Octane backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Charly Black backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Bugle backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Macka Diamond backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 I-Spryng backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Voice Mail on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Macka Diamond backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Nature backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 D'Angel backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Demarco on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Spice on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Demarco on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Kip Rich on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Lady Saw on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Spice back stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Lady Saw back stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Bounty Killer on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Mavado on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Bounty Killer Alliance backstage Reggae Sumfest 2009 Elephant Man interviewed backstage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Vybz Kartel on stage for Reggae Sumfest 2009 Beenie Man on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Beenie Man on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Beenie Man and Vybz Kartel on stage at Reggae Sumfest 2009 Crowds at Reggae Sumfest 2009

The medicine profiles the line.

I met Reinhold on a late afternoon this past week when he walked into the main office at Cotton Tree Place where I happened to be using the internet after having a conversation with the property manager Marie about how slow things have been for resorts this summer. This would be my third summer while living in Jamaica and specifically Negril and this has got to be the slowest summer season I have ever seen.

Things are aways slow in summer and you see fewer people in town this time of year but this year seems especially weak and a number of local businesses in Negril are suffering. Reinhold and his daughter Ana were visiting from Austria and they were taking a walk up West End Road when they decided to stop in the lobby at Cotton Tree to ask some questions about where they were and what there was to do in the area.

I struck up a conversation with Reinhold and told him about all of the wonderful things that I love about Negril and the rest of Jamaica for that matter. He made a comment about how slow things seemed and that he did not think there was much here to do. I told him that many of the better things to do on vacation in Jamaica are just outside the tourist towns and a trip down the south coast of Jamaica may be a great way to get out of the resort and into a Real Jamaican experience. He seemed interested and I told him that I would be glad to build a custom vacation tour for him and his daughter based on what I thought they may enjoy about Jamaica.

It turned out to be a very special tour of Jamaica for all of us and one excellent Jamaica vacation for Reinhold and Ana. One of the first questions Reinhold asked me about Negril was where he could find a good espresso and I told him there were not many options available to those of us used to gourmet coffee shops. Jamaicans don’t actually drink much coffee and the few shops that do offer it do not usually offer any gourmet blends or specialty coffees like espresso. Many of the resorts offer Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee but many more of them cheat and offer the lesser grades such as high mountain and other blends that are not to the same standard as the Blue Mountain brands. I thought he may appreciate a Blue Mountain Coffee Tour but Kingston is a long drive for some coffee and we would need another reason to go that far.

While speaking to his daughter Ana I asked what the reason was for the vacation and how it was they arrived in Jamaica. It seems that mother suggest that father and daughter take a vacation in order to be together more this summer and they ended up on a 16 day adventure from Austria to New York to Jamaica of which they had but a few days left to enjoy before returning home. Reinhold gave her the choice of where they should travel and suggested she choose two options. When she said New York and Jamaica he decided that both places were interesting and they should then go ahead and see them both. Her choice of Jamaica was influenced by her love of Bob Marley and reggae music. This gave us an even better reason to visit Kingston and ended up as the first of two days of adventure which began with the Bob Marley Experience Tour that included stops at the Peter Tosh Museum , the Bob Marley Museum and Ghetto Youths International although we were unable to make it over to Tuff Gong Records or Culture Yard in Trench Town due to time restraints and the decision to visit YS Falls for an extended hike up the falls and photo shoot on the lush property for Ana the aspiring photographer.

The need to reach the Montego Bay airport turned out to be the perfect reason to make the long drive from Spanish Town on the morning of the second day to Ocho Rios crossing the mid section of Jamaica before heading over to Mobay for the early evening flight and the end of our trip. We made the best of it and made dozens of short stops for small bites to eat and photo stops. Ana is vegan and Reinhold will eat only eat vegan or seafood so we enjoyed a number of stops at local eateries and road side cafes for the best in fresh fruit and local seafood cuisine. We had just about every kind of fruit in season from fresh cut pineapple and mangoes in Sav La Mar and pretty much all of Westmoreland Parish to the super sweet honey bananas, guinep or spanish lime as we called them in Key West and sweet sop we found in St Elizabeth and who could forget the best oranges we got in Porus and Manchester Parish. It’s always a pleasure to drive that much of Jamaica as you get to experience the very best that each community offers at the almost endless roadside vendors, cook shops and beer joints. Of course we had peppa shrimp in Middle Quarters and the fried fish and bammy in Scotts Cove but we also stopped a small road side fire that offered up some of the best vegetable stew I have ever had with a big cup full off farm fresh vegetables served steaming hot and packed with enough flavor and spices to break you out in a sweat. All of these were washed down with fresh squeezed juices we purchased along the way as well as the usual assortment of my favorite Tru Juice brands and of course a Ting for a carbonated shot of Jamaican Grapefruit to beat the heat as we drove in the summer sun.

I think it turned out to be an unforgettable experience for them both and I have no doubts that Reinhold and Ana enjoyed their last two days taking in much of the beauty of Jamaica in a whirlwind tour from Negril to Kingston to Ocho Rios with a final destination at the Montego Bay airport as they boarded the flight home to end their vacation. Everything timed out just about perfect and they reached the airport in Mobay with just minutes to spare after enjoying a final meal at the Jamaica Bobsled Restaurant on the Hip Strip in downtown Montego Bay.

After a some deliberations the decision was made to make it a two day adventure tour across Jamaica starting out in Negril and heading out over the south coast with an overnight stay in Kingston before the second days trip from Spanish Town to Ocho Rios and across the north coast where they had a flight at 8PM.

The first day would be very much like our standard South Coast Jamaica Tours except that after leaving the YS Falls property around lunch time on the first day we headed over to Kingston for the Bob Marley Museum Tour instead of Appleton as we do on many of the South Coast Jamaica Tours we do for people that are interested in the 200+ year history of rum in Jamaica. This not only takes us past the Holland Bamboo Avenue which everyone loves to see but on to Santa Cruz and Mandeville up high in the Jamaica hills where things are a little colder and life seems to slow down even more. We pass through a number of residential communities on this leg of the tour and get to see what the real Jamaica looks like with some real culture for those interested in seeing how the average person lives in Jamaica. Much of this area seems like the rest to some people and we did not make many stops here until we reached downtown Kingston on our way to the Marley Museum.

The Bob Marley Museum is a moving experience for any reggae fan when you realize just how important a man Bob Marley was and what an international influence his music has been. The Bob Marley Museum was a wonderful introduction to Bob Marley for Reinhold who knew very little about the reggae musician and his history or the rastafarian culture his 13 year old daughter was being exposed to through her friends and their musical influences. Reinhold was impressed with how much there was at the museum and he seemed glad for the opportunity to understand more. I feel he left with a clearer picture of who Bob Marley was and how great his musical influence has been not only on Jamaica but the entire world.

The final decision to stay up in the mountains allowed us to stay at an actual Jamaican coffee plantation in the Blue Mountains where we hiked to the peak of a privately owned mountain and witnessed some of the best vista views in Jamaica. We rented a room in the Jamaica Blue Mountains at Forres Park which is located on the road to Hagley Gap and the last township on the way to the Blue Mountain Peak. Hagley Gap and the peak where visible from our veranda whenever there was a break in the clouds which came up on us early in the morning as we were hiking and created a wonderful visual experience well beyond that of the capabilities of my camera and my photography skills. I wish my photos did justice to the depth of the landscape and far off mountain tops and the rays of sunlight and color busting through holes in the clouds but this was the best I could get in between small rain squalls that hit us as we neared the top and threatened to soak us and our equipment but were suddenly dashed away when the sun came raging through and remained for the rest of the afternoon.

Forres Park is such a nice place it is deserving of its own article and series of photos. Check back for those soon. After we took the morning hike to the Forres Park peak we took an even more treacherous decent on the now slippery and steep trail with hairpin turns that dropped off forever down the side of the mountain. It was tricky but we made it down just in time for a wonderful breakfast of ackee and saltfish and the best cup of coffee in the world before we made the trip back down into Kingston for some photo stops and on to the drive over to Spanish Town and the A3 highway that crosses from the south coast over the central highlands and north to Ocho Rios.

There are a number of stops in this area as well as directions that we could have gone and with more time there are quite a few things to see and do in this part of Jamaica. If we had more time we had the option of heading over to St Anns and the Bob Marley Mausoleum but Reinhold and Ana decided we had enough of Bob Marley for this tour and we chose instead to head straight for Ocho Rios. This brought us further up the North Coast and kept us on the main highway for most of the afternoon. This part of Jamaica is rich and fertile and the roads are dotted with as many fresh fruit stands that offer the very best that each parish or community has to offer as there are fresh fruits to be eaten. The farm fresh produce is reason enough to travel through areas like this if you love food as much as I do. Before we reach Ocho Rios we pass through Walkers Wood which is home to the WalkersWood spice company which produces an island favorite line of spices and sauces for cooking the most delicious foods on the island including jerk and brown stew delicacies that are so popular in Jamaica.

We enjoyed more time hiking in the Blue Mountains than I had originally planned and this cut into the time we had for attractions on the North Coast of Jamaica. The beauty of a customized tour itinerary is that you can make any changes you wish and not be bothered by what a bus full of strangers want to do. Upon arrival in Ocho Rios we passed through Fern Gully which is home to 100′s of varieties on fern plants all laid out in an old river gorge converted to highway that gives the feeling that you are driving in a tropical rainforest as the trees tower high above the road up the sides of the old river gorge. Fern Gully drops us right into the center of Ochi and allowed us to take a loop around the main part of town before we headed out onto the A2 highway towards Mobay.

Ocho Rios is a tourist town and many of the attractions besides the beaches and Dunns River are actually outside of town. Ocho Rios and Montego Bay are not my favorite parts of Jamaica and I feel the entire north coast in general offers a very artificial Jamaican experience full of cliches and bland boring flavor. Reinhold was never the less impressed with the overall development of the northern coast and the amount of high end living available. He was able to view the paradox that is Jamaica and see giant concrete homes laid out next door or across the street from zinc shacks and board houses in what must be one of the most blatant examples of the gap between rich and poor one can see in the world.

I really enjoy the Cranbrook Flower Forest and I had planned to stop there just to see the Jade Vine but sadly the vine was not in bloom and that caused us to skip the rest of the tour in favor of spending more time in Montego Bay before arriving at the airport. If we had time I also planned to make a stop on the Martha Brae River Rafting Tour but we made the decision to skip this as well in favor of a nice long dinner in Mobay before they had to catch their return flight home.

On this trip we took our time driving straight across the north caost to end up at the Hip Strip in Montego Bay where we stopped by the Jamaican Bobsled Cafe for a dinner that turned out to be fabulous and a final conversation with what are now my new friends in Austria. After two days of conversation on everything from travel and the cultural differences between us to cycling, sustainable development, passive solar construction, the necessity of money in the structure of society, the power of religion and the many problems our world faces I feel that we are sure to meet again and this is the beginning of a great friendship.

We drove past a lot of things on this tour of Jamaica but we can plan a custom Jamaica tour and vacation for you and your party so that on your next Jamaican vacation you can see just about all of the variety that Jamaica has to offer and every major city just like Reinhold and Ana did on the last two days of theirs.

No matter how often I find myself on a Black River Safari it is a treat to me each and every time. I had the pleasure of taking Angus and Kelley on a tour of the South Coast of Jamaica with stops at Black River and YS Falls. Our trip to Black River from Negril was short and sweet and we were at the Black River tour location before lunch.

We got the full tour with tons of information about the local ecology and the Black River ecosystem. The big draw on the river are the Jamaican Crocodile which can only be found here in Black River in small numbers. These rare animals spend their days cruising the rivers in search of food which often comes in the form of chicken carcasses tossed out by the Black River safari guides and tour operators who keep the crocs well fed.

The crocodiles in Black River are so tame and predictable that tour guides will often jump in the water or at least hand feed them for your enjoyment. There are sections of the river that are crocodile free where visitors can take a swim in the cool clear waters of the Black River. The river is called black because of the peat settled on the bottom but the river water is actually pretty clear although they say you should filter it before drinking.

A Black River and YS Falls tour is a wonderful way to spend the day traveling the lesser developed section of the island and the South Coast of Jamaica on a full day tour with stops in Scotts Cove or Middle Quarters for fresh fried fish and bammy or delicious hot boiled “peppa shrimp” and a real taste of Jamaica.

Purple Cattleya Orchid at Black River Jamaica

Irie Pontoon Riverboat Tours on Black River Jamaica

White Egret birds and Jamaican Wildlife at Black River Safari

Santa Cruz Mountains from Black River Safari Tour

Red mangrove at Black River Safari Tour Guides

Black River Dread Locks in Red Mangrove Tree

Jamaican Water Lily on Black River Safari

Black River Basin

Jamaican Crocodile with mouth wide

Angus and Kelley with JamaicaMAX Tours