Archive for the ‘Jamaica Tips’ Category

Driving along in the mini bus on Jamaican roads

I love driving my van around . It’s been about 10 months now I’ve had it and we have covered many many 1000’s of kilometers and nearly the entire country thus far. We have actually circled the island and spent time in most major cities. I can drive around Mobay, Ocho Rios, Negril and Kingston with no problem mon.

We have driven the South Coast route from Negril to Kingston a few dozen times now and I feel super comfortable taking this route. We have stopped at all the major attractions as well as most of the smaller ones in the last year and visited much of the South Coast . I especially love the Bluefields and Treasure Beach areas. Mandeville seems like a nice place to chill with some of the coolest weather on the island.

The van has been a great asset and well worth the investment. I have had to put a few bucks into it to keep it running but besides my van insurance its been pretty cheap. The van insurance policy we started with was weak and basically it covers the legal crap we need. I’m looking for some new van insurance quotes online using a new service that I found at QuoteZone.com but I will most likely be forced to stick with the crap policy I have. I say its crap because it does not cover anything more than the other person and it costs a fortune.

I’ve been lost in the van at least once on every trip we take and to be honest I’m glad it happens. Most often we end up in some rather unique and interesting situations that could only be found by getting lost in . From 100 head of goats taking up the road or an impromptu street festival that erupts around a sound system in the town square I have been in some places and seen some things that only only me and Jah seem to truly appreciate.

I love and my van has been a great part of the experience. If you plan on spending any more than 6 days in bring enough money to buy a car and just sell it before you leave. You’ll appreciate having one while you’re here and it may just change your life.


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In Jamaica the gun man is in control

I read this article below about guns in after a weekend where I came to see just how deep the love for guns and violence goes. I have noticed for quite some time the morbid fascination with guns and violence amongst many of the men and young boys here in and its correlation to the music they listen to. Jamaican youth are consumed with violence and guns of any fashion and the music they listen to is loaded with the most violent lyrics. I’ve met many children in this country and many of them are good kids but they all have this weird love of guns, murder and death thats very unhealthy.

Most Jamaican youth greet each other or celebrate bravado with gun shot hand motions and verbal blasts such as “Pop, pop, pop” or “Blast him” and almost every musician in country promotes it at every music festival and concert on the island. I was shocked to see the Marley brothers so fast to cut loose some pops of their own. I don’t believe we should be glorifying guns or death and I especially think those of us in influential positions should lead by example. I think the Marley brothers owe it to to point out the horrible reality of guns and violence and the pain and anguish it leads to.

The Jamaican gun man is a cultural icon both feared and celebrated by locals. Many “dons” or local crime bosses began as gunmen for hire and recent murders attest to the fact that Jamaicans never forget your past. Revenge murders and retribution take up a larger percentage of Jamaican crime statistics than most know about. Just two weeks back a local don was murdered in as hail of gunfire and the rumors are it was revenge for a past murder he committed as a youth. Jamaicans don’t seem to forget and I can attest to the fact they don’t let people get away with murder here. I think it’s a biblical to be honest. Eye for an eye is the rule of the streets in so be careful what you do unto others or it shall be done unto you in return.

I had an experience with some younger kids here in . One of them is 3 and he pretty much says or does what he hears his older brothers say. At 3 he knows more about guns, violence and murder than I did when I was 15. I asked him what he did in school one afternoon and his answer was “play gun games on Xbox” and I asked him why and he said “to kill de man dem” and I asked how he killed them and he said “with my AK dummy” and I asked him why he killed people and his answer was “cuz every man scare da gun man”.

The UN and could try their best and they can never stop the guns from reaching those who really want them. if is to come out of this violent trend then they must start by making the gun man a less glorious figure and point out the reality of the situation. The gun man is no friend and no one to be admired. Guns and violence are tools of the oppressors and its time for to stand up against this oppression.

THE United Nations wants the Jamaican government to institute strict gun control regulations as a means of stemming the heavy inflow of guns and ammunition into the island.

In a joint press release issued by UNICEF and the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP)for the Global Week of Action against Gun Violence, the UN urged all stakeholders to increase their efforts to tackle the arms flow, and embark on a social intervention drive in order to curb the high rate of armed violence that has taken over the island.

UN tells Jamaica to ‘control’ the guns - JAMAICAOBSERVER.COM


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Jamaica Blues

So it had to happen. After so many great months I suppose it was inevitable I had to have a bad one or two right? I’m hopefully at the end of what I am calling the “ Blues” syndrome that happens to many expats here in . Living in can be tough and when you’re spoiled on things in the States like customer service and more than one choice you sometimes forget that in its a one way or no way attitude if you can evan get it done at all. I’ve had a string of bad luck that started with troubles with my websites server, then the internet connection in my home took forever and then it moved on to troubles with my van and now I’m home alone with the kids and no help. Elise is back in the States for an extended stay and I have been here with the children acting as Mommy and Daddy for a couple of months now. It looks to stay that way for some time so I have had to make some changes.

It has actually required a major rework of my life and of course my work schedule in order to deal with the kids and their schedules. I’m basically not working which is my excuse for not updating the site in so long. There have been so many other things that have brought me down including the cost of living here and some of the other hassles in dealing with such a backwards and corrupted system. Things really are messed up here and its not getting any better for or most Jamaicans.

As an example it took me over 4 months to get a phone installed in my apartment and then another two weeks to get internet access. I wanted the 3MB internet service but they said only 1MB is available in Negril. Of course we happen to be a little to far from the dsl service so I’m only allowed to get the 512kb package which is simply not enough considering it only gets me about 350kbs on the best days. I cannot upload large video files as I have been planning for quite some time. My Vonage phone won’t work with someone on the net at the same time and I’m pretty sure Cable and Wireless is throttling p2p traffic. When I try to dl some files it just shuts down. I’m not happy with my internet service and I have not been for over 3 years now. I’m kinda over it.

I got into a fist fight with a mosquito late one night and in the process of kicking its ass I ripped the cord from my laptop in a pretty funny kung fu kick move that sent the laptop crashing. The ripped cord has been a real issue. I bought a universal laptop cord at Yellows Computer here in Negril but it has burned out on me twice now. They have my laptop and I’m using my home pc which is also the TV and Xbox game center. I have to fight for time online as both kids are now playing games and then the neighborhood kids found out we have Xbox Live so now we get a few kids each day over to play Madden or Halo online.

I let someone drive my van and they crashed it up good. The door and window are busted and its looking like hell. Then it developed a mystery short in it that kept killing the battery on me. I got stranded at least four times with the kids and those sucked horribly. Each time I got stuck in the worst place and in the the worst way. I sat next to the Scotia Bank in Negril for two hours in the pouring rain one afternoon with the kids in the van. I asked dozens of drivers for jumper cables and no one had any. I finally gave up and started walking home until I grabbed a ride in a cab. I went back the next day and picked it up with a new cab driver and some homemade wire cables. I tried to buy jumper cables but there are none in Negril or Sav so I made my own from some wire I found. I had to buy a new battery for $7000 or about $100US for the cheapo economy battery you get at WalMart in Florida for $30. The battery says it was made in so I wonder how the heck it costs so much?

The kids have been a drain on my time but so much fun I don’t care. It’s been pretty cool actually. I get to spend my day playing games, swimming in pools and reading silly books. Having so many other kids around has been a lot to handle but the most fun of all. Watching my children play with others and grow has been a great experience that makes up for all the headaches of the past two months.

We had a situation with a woman who moved in here. Shes a bad mother and her child infected mine with some badness. He’s a good kid I think but she’s dragging him around the world with no idea what happening. He speaks Italian, she speaks 3 languages but has not taught him English. Poor kid spent almost 10 days with me, as she kept dumping him here each morning, with no way to communicate or express himself. He began to act out and throw things. He spit on the cleaning staff and urinated in the pool. He ran around and ignored her repeated requests while chanting nya, nya, nya and my youngest son Robby has picked it up. I want to smack him for being such a smart ass but I’ve been talking to him more. Robby has been difficult for me as he requires nearly constant supervision. Thats been hard and he’s been pushing to see my limits at the same time so its doubly hard.

There has been a slew of other small crap like crackheads and their whorefriends, mongrel mutts and messy garbage and the infestation of rude goats here on Somerset Road that has been dragging on me. I see a lot of crap here in that no one seems to care about and I’ve been telling people they should do something about it. I think I offended a Jamaican or two when I told them to stop disrespecting themselves and the environment. Some folks get pissy when you tell them to pick up their garbage or wash their ass but I figure if you don’t tell them maybe they will never know.

Anyway, I just wanted to say I’m still here. Its summer and like Bob said; “The sun is shining and the weather is clear”. I’m picking fresh from the tree every few days and the birds in the yard have been amazing. Oh thats right. I had a uniquely Jamaican moment a few days back. I was walking back from the mango tree with arm full of . It was about to rain and the sun was shining beyond some dark rain clouds. As I was walking I heard a hummingbird and as I looked up a Jamaican Mango Hummingbird was fluttering in my face with the most perfect rainbow blazing across the blue Negril sky as a backdrop. It really was a zen moment and I appreciated the fact I had a to eat and a to watch sip nectar from the Hibiscus blooms. The hummingbirds seem naturally interested in humans and many of them will fly right up to your face if you whistle at them. The is huge in comparison to the Doctor Bird and it’s actually kinda loud. I’ve trained myself to hear them from pretty far and I follow them around the yard. I don’t feed them but I have been thinking about it. I do feed the two Jamaican Canaries that come to rest on the ground below my front each morning. If not the bird feed I bought they have a steady supply of rice and other wild seeds that they really seem to enjoy. It’s only two likkle birds but they do sit rather near to my door step just about every morning singing sweet songs. I whistle back at them and they will turn their heads and look up at me with one eye. My neighbor Rick started feeding this one lone white pigeon who then told the entire pigeon community to come over. We had about 20 birds in the yard today and not enough bread to go around.

I have a zillion photos on the laptop that I am hoping to post once I get the new cord. I have not had the camera out for much other than shots of Alfred Jesse and Robert Nesta for their sites which desperately need updating as well. I finally have internet at home and no time now to work with it. Sounds like mon! Everyting irie…


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An American gets his Jamaican Drivers License

I came to with the idea I would buy a car or van to take the kids places and to see more of the island during our trip and I am so happy I bought our 6 passenger Nissan Vanette that I already want another one for tours and so I can keep this one for just personal use. It was a little more than I wanted to spend at the time but in the end it worked out perfectly for us. We have been able to tour the entire island and meet some great people while seeing some beautiful places because of that van and we’ll see even more of it in days to come. It drives like a dream with a super smooth ride and the door arrangement is perfect for us as a family or for use as a tour bus and taxi cab. We get lots of folks looking at us for rides when we drive around in it but I rarely take the risk of picking anyone up.

I was prepared for driving in with my Florida drivers license and an International Driving Permit valid here in and like 30 other countries I think. It was quite the trick learning to navigate the roads of and I have discovered lots of new things while getting lost in the bush. I have put quite a few thousand kilometers on the van and I would never have found great places such as Sunset Heal and made new friends like the owner Beatrice without it. I certainly don’t mind traveling off the beaten track to find gems like that and the van has made this happen for us. One piece of advice that has kept us safe was always keep your tank full because you never know just how lost you can get in and the next gas station may be along way off.

When I insured the van with NEM insurance they told me I had 6 months to get a Jamaican drivers license so I bought a standard drivers license book and read through it once or twice. The test would be easy or so I thought. Driving on the left hand side of the road was odd at first but I’ve adjusted well and I have had quite a few Jamaicans comment on my good driving skills. My mom would be proud to see such an improvement over my teen driving years :) It must be the added responsibility of parenthood that keeps me more safe and aware on the roads now but learning to navigate this country with little to no road signage in every city was a different trick. My road map of that I purchased from Amazon before we arrived has been of great help and of course my favorite guide on has some nice maps and helpful suggestions as well. I brought the GPS along and have mapped some locations with it but I’m having trouble with integrating the maps into our blog still.

The paperwork necessary to own and drive a van here in took me some time to sort out. After buying the van and clearing up the ownership documents I had to get a signature from a Justice of the Peace who could claim to have known me for at least 90 days. I found a man in Sav willing to do so after having just met me. He did it for free but I tipped him $500 Jamaican for his help and time because he went through and verified all of my documents and even signed off on my four Passport photos which I needed to supply for the drivers license. After the Justice of the Peace I was required to have a medical examination to prove I am physically and mentally fit to drive. I found a doctor in Sav and had a quick examination for $1,000 Jamaican dollars and she signed off on that for me. I guess having the $1,000 was enough proof of my mental state. Once I had the TRN and vehicle documents secured it was a matter of paying another $1,000 Jamaican for permission to take the drivers test and I thought it was to be over. I was wrong and of course in things take longer because no one explains themselves and there is such a lack of information available. Most people in any kind of customer service position in this country need some serious job training with a focus on people skills and how to deal with the public. I have never seen so many rude people with the job of dealing with people as I do here in and specifically government positions. They must be seriously overworked and underpaid to all have such an abrasive attitude so I pity most of them.

I now know there are two types of drivers license in , Private and General. A private license is the basic license needed to operate a car or small personal vehicle. I have a 6 passenger van with the goal to have a red plate tag on it some day so I’ll need the General Drivers license which is more like a commercial drivers license. I asked what tests I would need to take while using my Florida drivers license to qualify and on my first visit for information to the Drivers testing depot in Sav La Mar I was mistakenly informed that I would only need to take the sign test, the yard test and the road test because of my use of my Florida drivers license as the qualifying document.

I was not made aware of what they call the mechanical test which goes in depth into the operation of the van and motor with details on things such as vehicle compression and motor functions and with questions like “On the compression stroke if a four cylinder motor what opens the valves?” or others about crankshaft directions in relation to the camshaft or something like that. I was lost. They showed me the test and I knew I would never pass it but the guy told me to take a chance so I did. I gave it a shot and came out with 14 correct from 22 which is failing. I needed 17 correct to pass. He tossed the test and told me to retake it at a later time. I’m going to have to go back after I have studied my new Jamaican Drivers Mechanical testing booklet which I purchased at Possessions bookstore in Sav La Mar for $250JA.

After taking the sign and mechanical tests I went ahead with the yard test because I could still finish that and the road test at this time. The yard test was pretty easy and consisted of me parking the van on an incline and taking off without rolling off the hill along with a simple reverse maneuver between some cones and parallel parking the vehicle on both sides within 18 inches of the curb. The yard is open to the public almost every day and if anyone needed to practice the course before hand it seems pretty easy to do.

When it came time to take the road test I was not aware that I had to bring a a licensed Jamaican driver with me but some fine Jamaican drivers are conveniently waiting there to ride with us for another $1,000 Jamaican dollars for their valuable time and skill set. I reluctantly paid the $1,000 to have a guy sit next to me as my driving instructor while the examiner sat in the back seat for the test. My instructor and I jumped in my van and drive down to the Mannings School entrance in Sav La Mar which is just up the road from the Driving Depot where the tests are administered and where they also do vehicle inspections. While we sat out front waiting for the examiner to arrive we talked some and the instructor told me I would most likely be asked to do the more difficult road maneuver from the handbook which was to turn around on a two way street using a minor road junction for the turn around.

It’s a pretty dumb move in my opinion because it forces you to reverse down a road in the right lane and turn in reverse into the minor road right hand lane before proceeding forward and turning left onto the major road from the left lane but I made sure to study the diagram provided in my manual before he arrived to be sure I understood the move. While executing my turn correctly another car turned into the minor road and stopped about 8 feet in front of me. After completing my reverse turn I came to face the driver in front of me and we both kinda sat there in a pause. Rather then sit still in the wrong lane facing the wrong direction about 40 feet before a road junction I chose to move around the car and proceed with my turn. My examiner told me to stop and then asked me what I was doing. He told me the other driver had the right of way and it was upon me to wait. I told him that it made little sense to sit there waiting for him to move when it was apparent he was waiting to see what I did. My examiner told me I failed on the spot and asked me to return to the garage. I was hot. I could not understand his logic in requiring me to sit in the middle of the right lane facing the wrong direction at a road junction while waiting for another car to move. I told him for safety sake it was best for me to get out of the road and if faced with that situation again I would act in the exact same way.

When we got back to the depot it took him about 5 minutes before he called me into his office and told me I failed and I would have to come back. I told him that was unacceptable and I wanted to speak with a supervisor. I told him I wanted to retake the test with some other more sensible person. I also accused him of splitting the $1,000 paid to his selected instructor and that brought a few others into the argument. Apparently even many Jamaican citizens are unaware of the requirement and they get caught up in it as well. I was given the chance to speak with a supervisor and the examiner in the room and after some pretty little drawings on a scrap of paper the supervisor called the instructor into the room. My driving instructor earned his $1,000 and told the supervisor he felt he would have done the same exact thing as I had done in my situation. He said we were at a stalemate of sorts and he felt it was on me to get out of the other cars way and on with my business. The supervisor called it a mistake in judgment by both parties and my only mistake in the test and passed me without really completing the driving test.

I went back and took the written mechanical test and got a receipt for my Jamaican Drivers License about 2 weeks late after memorizing the pre test questions to pass the mechanical portion of the test. The book and test were last updated in 1976 and there was little in there that actually related to my van or driving in but I now have a General Drivers License which allows me to drive cars, trucks or vans anywhere in . It took me over 4 months to receive my Jamaican drivers license and it has really helped me to understand just how screwed up things in this country can be. The bureaucracy, rigmarole and ridiculous red tape necessary to conduct any sort of business here really makes a mess out of things and must be the cause of some of the frustration amongst the Jamaican people.I understand that many drivers here never actually take the test and a large percentage of Jamaican drivers are forced to buy their license on the black market because some of them cannot read to take the tests and others simply don;t have the time or patience to take all these mundane steps to be able to drive.


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