]]> Old Jamaican in the Caribbean Sea is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

Here is a wonderful set of photos taken from the Negril Cliffs which features one of my favorite Jamaican fisherman out in the early morning as the sun rises on yet another beautiful Jamaica day. I watched this guy fish the local waters off and on for over a year before I settled to take his photo without his permission. I probably could have found him and asked him for it but it was nice to chat with him as he went on about his day completely oblivious to me while I sat and watched him from the seaside cliffs of a Negril resort in amazement at his strength and determination. Some of these Jamaica fisherman seem as old as the sea itself but do not be fooled, these guys are hard as stone and stronger than any two average men you know. They have been fishing these waters for over 50 years in many cases and pulled enough traps to feed a family for longer than I have been alive.

I was almost always amused and sometimes disgusted with how different our lives are and how as I sit there with my digital camera from the deck of my resort accommodations I can peer out into the distance and witness a real man working for a living from a hand carved dugout while I blog about my daily adventures and smoked a few spliffs over a cup of Blue Mountain Coffee in the comfort of my private room overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

It’s a sick and twisted world we live in and the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence but I would gladly trade my experiences and knowledge for his.

]]> Some Negril summer sunset photos is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

Here are some photos of sunsets in Negril for Summer 2009. Negril sunsets are beautiful year round but something about summertime in Negril makes the sunsets more colorful and brilliant. Sunsets on the beach are nice but I prefer the West End Negril sunsets from great spots like Ricks Cafe and LTU Pub.

]]> Bob Marley Museum in Kingston Jamaica is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

See more pics in the Bob Marley Museum photo gallery!!

Bob Marley is a legend all across the world but in Jamaica is his revered as a saint by many. His home in Kingston is an important part of the Bob Marley experience in Jamaica and one of the most popular tourist attractions in the area.

The museum is home to the largest collection of Marley memorabilia and a great place to visit for an introduction into the history of reggae music. You will pass through rooms in the home where Bob cooked his food, wrote his songs and even see the very bed he slept in and the house slippers he wore while there.

The room carries a lot of history with loads of gold and platinum records hanging in rooms on the guided tours and even more newspaper articles from around the world highlighting his shows in places like Japan and Africa. It was nice to visit the first time just as much as it was the 5th and now 10th time I have gone. I particularly enjoy reading the newspaper articles for various opinions on Bob from people all over the world.

You will see the room where Bob was shot and even the original bullet holes still in the wall. There is a wonderful little spice garden and of course a huge shop full of Bob Marley things for sale. The tour ends with a somber music video highlighting his career and music. It’s nice to see Bob in the rare home movies and pictures throughout the museum. He seemed at peace for much of his life and the home reflects that.

You cannot take photos inside the Bob Marley Museum but the memories stay with you. If you make it to Kingston and appreciate the mans music you have to take a tour of the Bob Marley Museum as part of your Jamaica Vacation.

]]> Custom Jamaica Vacation Tours for Reinhold and Ana is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

I met Reinhold on a late afternoon this past week when he walked into the main office at Cotton Tree Place where I happened to be using the internet after having a conversation with the property manager Marie about how slow things have been for resorts this summer. This would be my third summer while living in Jamaica and specifically Negril and this has got to be the slowest summer season I have ever seen.

Things are aways slow in summer and you see fewer people in town this time of year but this year seems especially weak and a number of local businesses in Negril are suffering. Reinhold and his daughter Ana were visiting from Austria and they were taking a walk up West End Road when they decided to stop in the lobby at Cotton Tree to ask some questions about where they were and what there was to do in the area.

I struck up a conversation with Reinhold and told him about all of the wonderful things that I love about Negril and the rest of Jamaica for that matter. He made a comment about how slow things seemed and that he did not think there was much here to do. I told him that many of the better things to do on vacation in Jamaica are just outside the tourist towns and a trip down the south coast of Jamaica may be a great way to get out of the resort and into a Real Jamaican experience. He seemed interested and I told him that I would be glad to build a custom vacation tour for him and his daughter based on what I thought they may enjoy about Jamaica.

It turned out to be a very special tour of Jamaica for all of us and one excellent Jamaica vacation for Reinhold and Ana. One of the first questions Reinhold asked me about Negril was where he could find a good espresso and I told him there were not many options available to those of us used to gourmet coffee shops. Jamaicans don’t actually drink much coffee and the few shops that do offer it do not usually offer any gourmet blends or specialty coffees like espresso. Many of the resorts offer Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee but many more of them cheat and offer the lesser grades such as high mountain and other blends that are not to the same standard as the Blue Mountain brands. I thought he may appreciate a Blue Mountain Coffee Tour but Kingston is a long drive for some coffee and we would need another reason to go that far.

While speaking to his daughter Ana I asked what the reason was for the vacation and how it was they arrived in Jamaica. It seems that mother suggest that father and daughter take a vacation in order to be together more this summer and they ended up on a 16 day adventure from Austria to New York to Jamaica of which they had but a few days left to enjoy before returning home. Reinhold gave her the choice of where they should travel and suggested she choose two options. When she said New York and Jamaica he decided that both places were interesting and they should then go ahead and see them both. Her choice of Jamaica was influenced by her love of Bob Marley and reggae music. This gave us an even better reason to visit Kingston and ended up as the first of two days of adventure which began with the Bob Marley Experience Tour that included stops at the Peter Tosh Museum , the Bob Marley Museum and Ghetto Youths International although we were unable to make it over to Tuff Gong Records or Culture Yard in Trench Town due to time restraints and the decision to visit YS Falls for an extended hike up the falls and photo shoot on the lush property for Ana the aspiring photographer.

The need to reach the Montego Bay airport turned out to be the perfect reason to make the long drive from Spanish Town on the morning of the second day to Ocho Rios crossing the mid section of Jamaica before heading over to Mobay for the early evening flight and the end of our trip. We made the best of it and made dozens of short stops for small bites to eat and photo stops. Ana is vegan and Reinhold will eat only eat vegan or seafood so we enjoyed a number of stops at local eateries and road side cafes for the best in fresh fruit and local seafood cuisine. We had just about every kind of fruit in season from fresh cut pineapple and mangoes in Sav La Mar and pretty much all of Westmoreland Parish to the super sweet honey bananas, guinep or spanish lime as we called them in Key West and sweet sop we found in St Elizabeth and who could forget the best oranges we got in Porus and Manchester Parish. It’s always a pleasure to drive that much of Jamaica as you get to experience the very best that each community offers at the almost endless roadside vendors, cook shops and beer joints. Of course we had peppa shrimp in Middle Quarters and the fried fish and bammy in Scotts Cove but we also stopped a small road side fire that offered up some of the best vegetable stew I have ever had with a big cup full off farm fresh vegetables served steaming hot and packed with enough flavor and spices to break you out in a sweat. All of these were washed down with fresh squeezed juices we purchased along the way as well as the usual assortment of my favorite Tru Juice brands and of course a Ting for a carbonated shot of Jamaican Grapefruit to beat the heat as we drove in the summer sun.

I think it turned out to be an unforgettable experience for them both and I have no doubts that Reinhold and Ana enjoyed their last two days taking in much of the beauty of Jamaica in a whirlwind tour from Negril to Kingston to Ocho Rios with a final destination at the Montego Bay airport as they boarded the flight home to end their vacation. Everything timed out just about perfect and they reached the airport in Mobay with just minutes to spare after enjoying a final meal at the Jamaica Bobsled Restaurant on the Hip Strip in downtown Montego Bay.

After a some deliberations the decision was made to make it a two day adventure tour across Jamaica starting out in Negril and heading out over the south coast with an overnight stay in Kingston before the second days trip from Spanish Town to Ocho Rios and across the north coast where they had a flight at 8PM.

The first day would be very much like our standard South Coast Jamaica Tours except that after leaving the YS Falls property around lunch time on the first day we headed over to Kingston for the Bob Marley Museum Tour instead of Appleton as we do on many of the South Coast Jamaica Tours we do for people that are interested in the 200+ year history of rum in Jamaica. This not only takes us past the Holland Bamboo Avenue which everyone loves to see but on to Santa Cruz and Mandeville up high in the Jamaica hills where things are a little colder and life seems to slow down even more. We pass through a number of residential communities on this leg of the tour and get to see what the real Jamaica looks like with some real culture for those interested in seeing how the average person lives in Jamaica. Much of this area seems like the rest to some people and we did not make many stops here until we reached downtown Kingston on our way to the Marley Museum.

The Bob Marley Museum is a moving experience for any reggae fan when you realize just how important a man Bob Marley was and what an international influence his music has been. The Bob Marley Museum was a wonderful introduction to Bob Marley for Reinhold who knew very little about the reggae musician and his history or the rastafarian culture his 13 year old daughter was being exposed to through her friends and their musical influences. Reinhold was impressed with how much there was at the museum and he seemed glad for the opportunity to understand more. I feel he left with a clearer picture of who Bob Marley was and how great his musical influence has been not only on Jamaica but the entire world.

The final decision to stay up in the mountains allowed us to stay at an actual Jamaican coffee plantation in the Blue Mountains where we hiked to the peak of a privately owned mountain and witnessed some of the best vista views in Jamaica. We rented a room in the Jamaica Blue Mountains at Forres Park which is located on the road to Hagley Gap and the last township on the way to the Blue Mountain Peak. Hagley Gap and the peak where visible from our veranda whenever there was a break in the clouds which came up on us early in the morning as we were hiking and created a wonderful visual experience well beyond that of the capabilities of my camera and my photography skills. I wish my photos did justice to the depth of the landscape and far off mountain tops and the rays of sunlight and color busting through holes in the clouds but this was the best I could get in between small rain squalls that hit us as we neared the top and threatened to soak us and our equipment but were suddenly dashed away when the sun came raging through and remained for the rest of the afternoon.

Forres Park is such a nice place it is deserving of its own article and series of photos. Check back for those soon. After we took the morning hike to the Forres Park peak we took an even more treacherous decent on the now slippery and steep trail with hairpin turns that dropped off forever down the side of the mountain. It was tricky but we made it down just in time for a wonderful breakfast of ackee and saltfish and the best cup of coffee in the world before we made the trip back down into Kingston for some photo stops and on to the drive over to Spanish Town and the A3 highway that crosses from the south coast over the central highlands and north to Ocho Rios.

There are a number of stops in this area as well as directions that we could have gone and with more time there are quite a few things to see and do in this part of Jamaica. If we had more time we had the option of heading over to St Anns and the Bob Marley Mausoleum but Reinhold and Ana decided we had enough of Bob Marley for this tour and we chose instead to head straight for Ocho Rios. This brought us further up the North Coast and kept us on the main highway for most of the afternoon. This part of Jamaica is rich and fertile and the roads are dotted with as many fresh fruit stands that offer the very best that each parish or community has to offer as there are fresh fruits to be eaten. The farm fresh produce is reason enough to travel through areas like this if you love food as much as I do. Before we reach Ocho Rios we pass through Walkers Wood which is home to the WalkersWood spice company which produces an island favorite line of spices and sauces for cooking the most delicious foods on the island including jerk and brown stew delicacies that are so popular in Jamaica.

We enjoyed more time hiking in the Blue Mountains than I had originally planned and this cut into the time we had for attractions on the North Coast of Jamaica. The beauty of a customized tour itinerary is that you can make any changes you wish and not be bothered by what a bus full of strangers want to do. Upon arrival in Ocho Rios we passed through Fern Gully which is home to 100’s of varieties on fern plants all laid out in an old river gorge converted to highway that gives the feeling that you are driving in a tropical rainforest as the trees tower high above the road up the sides of the old river gorge. Fern Gully drops us right into the center of Ochi and allowed us to take a loop around the main part of town before we headed out onto the A2 highway towards Mobay.

Ocho Rios is a tourist town and many of the attractions besides the beaches and Dunns River are actually outside of town. Ocho Rios and Montego Bay are not my favorite parts of Jamaica and I feel the entire north coast in general offers a very artificial Jamaican experience full of cliches and bland boring flavor. Reinhold was never the less impressed with the overall development of the northern coast and the amount of high end living available. He was able to view the paradox that is Jamaica and see giant concrete homes laid out next door or across the street from zinc shacks and board houses in what must be one of the most blatant examples of the gap between rich and poor one can see in the world.

I really enjoy the Cranbrook Flower Forest and I had planned to stop there just to see the Jade Vine but sadly the vine was not in bloom and that caused us to skip the rest of the tour in favor of spending more time in Montego Bay before arriving at the airport. If we had time I also planned to make a stop on the Martha Brae River Rafting Tour but we made the decision to skip this as well in favor of a nice long dinner in Mobay before they had to catch their return flight home.

On this trip we took our time driving straight across the north caost to end up at the Hip Strip in Montego Bay where we stopped by the Jamaican Bobsled Cafe for a dinner that turned out to be fabulous and a final conversation with what are now my new friends in Austria. After two days of conversation on everything from travel and the cultural differences between us to cycling, sustainable development, passive solar construction, the necessity of money in the structure of society, the power of religion and the many problems our world faces I feel that we are sure to meet again and this is the beginning of a great friendship.

We drove past a lot of things on this tour of Jamaica but we can plan a custom Jamaica tour and vacation for you and your party so that on your next Jamaican vacation you can see just about all of the variety that Jamaica has to offer and every major city just like Reinhold and Ana did on the last two days of theirs.

]]> Queen Ifrica at Negril Escape for One Love Reggae Concert Series is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

I was fortunate enough to have been invited to the first show in the One Love Concert Series held at Negril Escape Resort and Spa and it was one of the best reggae concerts in Negril that I have seen in the two years that I have been living in Jamaica. Jamaicans love music and there have been literally 100’s of shows to see but to be truthful they can often times be aggravating to say the least.

From chatty DJ’s who just can’t let a song play for more than 30 seconds which of course makes it impossible to catch a groove and dance with to the hours and hours of delays and endless technical issues most shows are plagued with because of low grade equipment or inexperienced technicians and ending with the worst the no show artists who never make it on stage because they are not there or the show gets shut down for running to late. It’s unreal to me how messed up some music shows in Negril can actually be and in many ways it really takes away from the overall experience.

Jamaicans love to party hard and late with many events not even starting until 10PM and running well past the 2am curfew occasionally enforced by zealous police officers who will shut an event down sometimes before the promoters and artists even get them started. I cannot tell you how many times I have expected to see a Jamaican artist at a reggae show in Jamaica and I ended up leaving home early in the morning of the next day wondering how things ended up so. I have even wondered to myself on one or two occasions if the artist was ever going to show up at all.

I went to a Vybz Kartel show at Club Scrub A Dub and it was 2 hours behind schedule when gun shots went off outside the club and a hail of rocks and debris were tossed over the fence at the police force who immediately shut the show down and evacuated everyone. About 200 people ran out and fled the scene and of course the promoters kept all the money for a show that never was. Imagine how much money you can make it you dont actually have to pay the artist but instead pay a couple gangsters to pop some shots. Sounds off the wall but not in Jamaica.

The reggae concerts held at Negril Escape are far and away a different experience and one I can guarantee you will enjoy. To begin with the show starts promptly at 8PM and end by midnight which makes it so you can still stand up when the main artist hits the stage and at this show people were actually dancing rather than simply swaying to the beat. At 2am it can be a little harder to get motivated by reggae music but there was no problem at the Negril Escape shows because by 2am I was well asleep. Many of the people at the show were guests of the resort and many of them commented on how convenient it was to watch a reggae concert on the edge of the Caribbean Sea and then have the luxury of walking a few steps to your room after a night cap at the seaside bar and restaurant.

The first show in the series featured headline artist Queen Ifrica with her friend Fyahkin along with local Negril artist Edge Michael and DJ Gemini who kicked things off on the turntables with some high energy mixing of top reggae hits to get the crowd warmed up. Edge Michael is a popular Westmoreland musician with a number of hit songs in rotation on the local radio stations and his performance at Tuesday nights show was crystal clean and reflective of the maturity and experience this young artist has gained in the last year. Edge Michael is great singer and stage performer but his real talent may be in self promotion and marketing as you can see his face in about a zillion places from Black River to Mobay and all parts in between.

This show was my first experience listening to Fyahkin perform and I was impressed with his vocal abilities and stage prescience which were strong but not over powering as so many young Jamaican males can be. It’s strange to me how often a young artist will come out on stage screaming out unintelligible lyrics that not even most Jamaicans can understand in the confused belief that noise makes them seem more powerful.

The backing band was also very impressive and a great improvement over the regular house band used in so many shows around Negril. I won’t give out there name because they are friends of mine but it’s a bit tiring to hear the same band play at so many locations in Negril. For the longest time I thought there was only one keyboard player in the whole of Negril because this one guy was so popular. What I found out later was he was the cheapest and one of the few who had his own keyboard. This show was much better and the band held their own for a great acoustic set and even got compliments from Queen Ifrica who commented on how well they performed and how it inspired her to push herself. You can see in the attached video on YouTube that the band did a great job and the bass player should be complimented for his ability to play so well with Ifrica during her many rap sessions.

Queen Ifrica is well known as a Rasta Lioness who writes and sings songs of empowerment for the women and underprivileged youth of Jamaica. She is very proud of her African heritage and a force on the rasta music scene both locally and on an international level as well. Her style is unique and influenced by the very best in roots reggae with an infusion of hip hop and rap that makes her a cross over in many genres. The crowd reflected this with her many fans from places like Russia, Canada, Italy, America and of course Jamaica all singing along word for word with her more popular songs and clapping and dancing along as she performed some of her new material on the recently released new album titled “Montego Bay”.

Queen Ifrica performed at Reggae Sumfest (yes I went and I am still writing articles and processing video on that) and there was a huge difference in her two sets with this being more up close and personal. Queen Ifrica seemed to appreciate that and she made contact with just about everyone in attendance in some way or another. The Negril Escape is a great setting for a show and the layout is such that everyone gets a great view of the stage and you almost feel like its a private show when the artist is so close. Ifrica took things further by coming out from back stage well before her scheduled performance where she spent time mingling on the edges of the crowd signing autographs and posing for photogrpahs before she ever sang a tune and then she spent at least an hour making sure to sign every autograph and taking every photo her fans wanted. It worked out well as she must have sold over 50 CD’s that she sat and signed and of course the fans were ecstatic to be able to get so close to her.

I never do understand how some people can go to a show and then stand a mile away from the stage and watch a giant TV screen to see the show. For me its aways best to get as close to the artist as possible so you can feel the energy and emotion they put into their music and the One Love Concert Series is the perfect place for that. The Negril Escape Resort and Spa is located on the Negril Cliffs and unlike many shows on the beach you can actually experience the natural beauty of watching a show on the waters edge without the interruption of a fence and security guards to keep out the beach people and idlers who want to catch a free show. At Negril Escape you get to watch the show under the watchful eyes of the moon and stars with nothing in the way but the cool sea breeze.

I look forward to the rest of the series with next weeks show featuring Luciano and my good friend and local artist Timmi Burrel. If you are in Negril and looking for a great reggae show then you must check out the One Love Concerts held Tuesday nights in season at Negril Escape. They have over 20 shows scheduled this year and it makes for a great reggae vacation when you book reservations based on your choice for the best show and your favorite reggae artist. With top names like Queen Ifrica, Luciano and Etana to name but a few it seems the place to be for live reggae music in Negril is the Negril Escape Resort and Spa which is putting on the best run shows with high grade talent in the perfect setting.

Check out the Negril Escape Facebook page or their website for more details and where to book your Jamaican reggae vacation.

]]> Cost of groceries in Negril Jamaica Summer 2009 is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

Ok, we recently passed 2 years that we have been living in Negril Jamaica and although I have considered doing this post for quote some time I am just getting around to discussing the cost of food at the grocery stores in Negril and what your options are for value or how to extend your food budget while living in paradise.

I would guess that the primary reason I never got around to writing much about the cost of food in Negril is that it’s never been such an issue to save on my grocery bill as it has been this year. When we arrived in July of 2007 we had no idea what it would be like living here and we made a lot of mistakes with the currency exchange and with the cost of certain foods in the grocery stores in Negril. There are huge differences in shopping in Jamaica that I will not get very detailed with but suffice to say you will not have much of a selection of anything and those foods that are familiar to you from shelves in America will most likely cost you quite a bit more than they did back home.

Snack items like Doritos chips and Chips Ahoy cookies are just crazy and I have seen a regular size bag of Doritos marked at about $8 US in the Hi Lo grocery store. That’s just nuts if you ask me but we paid it once or twice even before noticing how much it was. Many of the stores in Jamaica do not place pricing labels on the items and it can be a serious sticker shock when you realize the cost of items like a box of imported cereal or a skinless chicken breast which can go up to as much as $960 JA per kilo or about $11 US. You can buy 2 whole frozen chickens for that kind of money if you know how to shop and you’re able to do a little bit of labor on your own.

In Jamaica the grocery stores do not provide the same level of services that you find in most American grocery stores. There are no deli cut meats other than some prepackaged and overpriced items shipped from overseas and those stores that do cut meat charge a fortune for the service. The current rate for chicken by the pound runs from between $170 to $190 JA per pound for Grade A whole birds from companies like Best Dressed Chicken and of course prices go up if you want just breast, legs or thighs. In Jamaica they eat the whole bird and you will find chicken backs and chicken feet are actually incredibly popular for use in soups and stews.

In Jamaica chicken soup will often be chicken foot soup which is a bit shocking for your first experience. I will not soon forget looking into that steamy cup of soup and seeing a foot with toes sticking up in the air as if someone dunked a chicken in there upside down. I controlled my gag reflex and moved past it but I did remove the offending appendage and not consume it.

I do not eat feet. It’s an odd rule maybe but one I stick to firmly. I don’t do pigs feet, cow foot or goat feet either. I am an equal opportunity hater. I will not be sucking the meat off a chickens toes now or any other day of my life. They peel the skin and wash them well but no amount of heat and spices can cover the fact that chickens spend their lives walking around in chicken shit an I am not sucking its toes!

So what do we do? Well as a family of four we have the ability to consume a whole bird rather effectively and we no longer purchase parts unless we want to really save. At the Value Master which is located in the shopping center located adjacent to the Negril Round About or Town Square they have daily chicken specials with chicken parts usually running at around $150JA per pound or about $1.80 US which is actually the cheapest I have ever seen chicken sell for anywhere in Negril. You get a mixed bag of parts with no choice in how it is delivered but it’s a good deal when you are on a budget or strapped for cash. A kilo or just over 2 pounds serves us well for dinner and we have been having fun trying new ways to cook it including brown stew, curry and I have even come up with my own jerk chicken that is much more moist and flavorful than most of the pan chicken you can buy in the area.

A quarter serving of jerk chicken with a slice of bread goes for about $300 to $350 JA from most pan or jerk chicken shacks everywhere in Negril. I can buy a kilo of chicken which I wrap in aluminum foil to retain the juices and marinate in a basic jerk seasoning before tossing them on the fire outside. It’s much better and not as dried out as much of the jerk chicken is around here. We eat more than just chicken and in fact we have been eating a lot more fish than we ever did.

A standard size can of jack mackerel in tomato sauce costs about $160JA if you chose either the Lasco or Grace brands when you serve it over a nice big plate of black beans and rice with maybe a side vegetable it’s another great family meal for less than $5 US. A can of tuna from Brunswick can cost as little as $75JA and as much as $180JA for premium brands. Frozen seafood is pretty standard in most places with the Rainforest Brands of packaged fish being the more popular. They import lots of fish I never heard of before I came here including bangamary and others that are available at around $240JA per pound and they do stock Caribbean varieties such as kingfish in slices which run about $250JA per pound or maybe you prefer a whole red snapper which goes for about $350 per pound. Fresh fish is available regularly from a number of places including the small fishermans beach near MiYard but the fish most locals eat are unacceptable to me and I generally find myself buying imported frozen cuts from the local markets.

I was raised in South Florida and we never ate things like parrot fish, jack crevalle, goggle eyes, pufferfish, blue tangs, blue head wrasse or even sting rays and I see those on the menu every day around here. I was also shocked to see the size of most of the fish eaten are less than the length of your hand and some are as small as the length of your finger. It made no sense to me until I realized that the nearshore waters are completely overfished and devoid of anything but these less desirable fish. You rarely see things like nice size yellowtail, grey or mangrove snapper except for one or two places around here it seems. I rarely see nice cuts of salmon or other common fish and most of what you find comes from the Caribbean with the exception of codfish whihc is so popular here for ackee and saltfish breakfast. Some of the fish locals eat are a downright crime and someone should stop them. As an example my 4 year old barked out to a local fisherman passing by in his canoe to “gimme a fish mon” and the rasta tossed a baby grouper to him that was no longer then the length of my hand and more likely to be found in a fish tank in American than on someones dinner plate. So long as they continue to eat these baby fish there will be no future for the fishing in the area and sadly I think its only going to get worse before it ever gets any better.

You can find fresh fish on the seaside near the bottom corner of West End Road just past First Choice Grocery or “China Mans” as it is commonly referred or directly across from the SeaView Corner Bar where there are some shade trees with benches lined up on the seaside of the road where you will often find a salesman with a load of nice big fish he sells for some of the larger boats that travel to deeper waters. He often has a couple larger fish but he always wants too much money for them and I have trouble with the fact I have seen him out there peddle the same fish all day and on occasion for two days. It’s like 90+ degrees outside and he has about a cup of ice in a bucket full of fish some days that wreak to high heaven. Be careful.

Lobster, crab and octopus are also popular seafoods here but none of them are on my list as I simply do not care for them. I especially do not like the lobster nor do I understand the popularity of such a tough meat. I don’t mind a lobster tail in butter with garlic but it has to be more than a bite size piece to tempt me and I cannot see the sense in paying so much for so little. I don’t think I have ever seen a stone crab or blue crabs in Jamaica and most of what they eat are what we called toilet crabs or swamp crabs that lived in the mangroves back in the Florida Keys. There is a large hole in an empty lot thats usually full of goats and every summer a bunch of these crabs come out into the streets and neighborhood in search of food or water I suppose and Jamaicans snatch them up and have a feist on them.

We do eat three meals a day and it’s not always a big dinner. For breakfast we have taken things back to the old days I suppose. My kids love pancakes and Aunt Jemima was like a real family member to us in a lot of ways. Her face has graced the packages of our breakfast meals for many years now but it was easier than I thought to walk away from her and that we have done. We used to eat a box of pancake mix per week and of course wash it down with a bottle of Aunt Jemima Pancake Syrup which is little more than flavored corn syrup and not as healthy as you may think. What are your options? Well we now purchase the raw ingredients and mix our own whole wheat pancake mix and we prefer Jamaican organic honey over corn syrup products. A one pound bag of whole wheat flour is like $80JA or about $1US and we can make a lot of pancakes with that and a liter bottle of honey runs about $500JA and lasts at least two weeks where a bottle of syrup is $350 and lasts less than one week,

We get creative with the pancakes as well and mix up everything from bananas and plantains to fresh mango and even strawberry jam or orange marmalade if we don’t go with the usual honey over wheat cakes. Not much for blueberry or blackberry here in Jamaica and you can even forget about finding fresh strawberries for most of the year. Be careful when you do find them as you will be shocked at what they cost. I paid almost $15US for one small basket of not so fresh strawberries t Hi Lo when we first arrived because I did not price check them and we had eaten the entire basket before we even walked out of the store. It’s hits like that that kill the grocery budget. We also eat more oatmeal, green banana and peanut porridge and even my oldest son and most picky eater AJ will sit down to a bowl of oatmeal and peanut porridge with a drizzle of honey over the top. The peanut porridge is a favorite of mine and has been since I had my first hot cup full many years back. It’s always better when you buy fresh made from a cook shop or maybe rasta road side stand but we eat a prepackaged porridge from Creation Foods thats almost as good if prepared properly. Creation Foods makes a number of organic products that we are now eating and I’m happy that it not only lowered the cost of groceries but has improved our diet as well. You can’t beat that can you?

Shopping in Negril is expenisve and most of us that live here now shop in Sav La Mar which is about 30 minutes away by taxi or bus or about $300JA if you take the route taxis. There are a number of shops in Sav La Mar and D&Y is a popular spot down towards the end of Great Georges Road where there is also the open farmers market but I prefer the new Shoppers Fair which is adjacent to the roundabout and offers a nice new store with better inventory. D&Y is good for buying cheap meats and vegetables but Shoppers Fair has a much nicer selection of items and the prices are very competitive. I usually stop in at the patty shop out front before going shopping now because it saves me on munchies and snack items that I inevitably reach for as I cruise the grocery store.

You may ask about the price of other meats and I would not be the person to ask as I don’t eat much more than chicken or fish. I see lots of pork here and it seems reasonable priced but you do not see much beef here and I do understand what cuts you do find are low grade and very expensive. My good friend Rick tells me they eat mostly bull meat and they do not neuter the cattle here but I cannot confirm that. Checking in at the local Hi Lo I see they offer pork chops for about $350JA per pound, pork leg for under $300JA and pork spare ribs are about $500JA per pound. There was not much beef in the shop when I checked but they did have the chuck steaks pictured here for about $400JA per pound and oxtail for about the same price.

Jamaica is blessed with bountiful farm lands and an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables that you can find in many places across the island. Here in Jamaica we often get home delivery of fresh vegetables from local farmers who stop by once a week in their farm trucks. Find one that comes to your area and start a relationship with them for the best deals. We eat lots of farm fresh vegetables that we used in soups or steamed most often. We make a large pot of vegetable soup at least once a week with large pieces of irish potato, sweet potato, onions, peppers, corn, scallions and Jamaican pumpkin. When we buy a whole chicken we often take the chicken back, neck and wings and add them into a chicken soup that I may spruce up with an extra package of chicken backs you can get for about $200JA.

You can also get lots of fresh vegetables and fish at the open market in Sav La Mar which is usually best if you want to buy something in bulk. As an example you can buy large bushels of sweet potato, breadfruit, casava, oranges and other common Jamaican vegetables at discount prices. In Negril you can find a vegetable market in the alley alongside the Juici Patty shopping center just past the roundabout on the road to Sheffield where you can find fresh veggies and fruits like pineapple for $150JA or bags of oranges for $250JA and some delicious honey banana for $25JA each or 5 for $100JA and you are supporting a Jamaican farmer rather than the national grocers chain.

I’m proud to say we have kicked the soda habit and now drink less than one per month as a treat on occasion for the kids. If it were my choice we would never do that but I suppose they enjoy them still. All of us drink a lot of water because it can get hot like fire here especially in the summer and sticky sodas just don’t quench the thirst. I was able to explain this to the kids and they now request water or fruit juices with every meal and we don’t even drink the local Jamaican carbonated drinks which we had switched to from brands like Coca Cola and Pepsi which are less healthy and more expensive in most cases. Ting is made from Jamaican grapefruits and seems to be a little better for you than soda. I had the kids drinking those for quite some time as a soda replacement but these days we drink quite a lot more fruit juices. Tru Juice brands are the best and most natural juices available at about $500JA for a gallon of fresh Jamaican orange juice which we all love or any number of other juices available here including pineapple, banana, mango and the many mixes.

Here are some tips for anyone shopping in Jamaica. Be aware of the price you pay for any item before you reach the counter or have paid for it. Unlabeled items may carry high price tags and those of course are subject to change based on where you might be from and how much you might be able to afford. Also be careful to keep an eye on the bag boys. I know it sounds messed up but I have no doubt that they have stolen items from us before. It’s impossible for an item to get rung up and paid for but not make it home in the bags of groceries unless the bag boys has been taking things. We have had many different items come up missing and its usually some type of treat or candy that will not go unnoticed for long. Plan on shortages of staple items like milk and cheese like sour and cream which can disappear for as long as a week or more. If you have a craving for something special and you do find it in Jamaica then grab as much as you can because you never know how long it will be before you see it again.

My best advice for grocery shopping in Negril on a budget is to shop around at all the stores and start price checking things to make certain you get the best deal. If you plan to spend more than $100US per week than take the trip to Sav La Mar and save more money on your total grocery bill.

]]> Negril all natural at Heart Beat Seaside Resort is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

When we made the decision to move to Jamaica more than 2 years ago we searched Google for rooms to rent in Negril and one of the listings we found was for Heart Beat Seaside Resort on the West End Cliffs of Negril. We decided to make the initial move in summer when better long term rates are available and we ended staying there for the first 6 months we lived in Jamaica. I think that living at Heart Beat and meeting the people we did has made our long term stay in Negril possible in many ways.

We moved and tried other places to live in Negril but we have remained close with the staff which includes Hyacinth and Junie the housekeepers and Kevin the groundskeeper as well as Valerie Brewis the property owner who is a 30 year resident of this wonderful slice of the world. We have lived away from the sea since we left and we have been longing for it since that same day. Something about living seaside is just so peaceful and natural to me and Heart Beat is the perfect place for relaxing days watching nature and life pass by. I think it must have something to do with growing up in Key West and always near the ocean but I can waste away hours just watching the waters in anticipation of a school of fish jumping or a dolphin popping up for air.

We sat at Devine Destiny for a long time and when it was time for a change we new we wanted to be within sight of the Caribbean again. If we could we wanted to be seaside but living there long term can be a trick. Lucky for us we happen to know some and we are once again relaxing in the beauty and cool quiet atmosphere of Heart Beat where the sunsets from the cliffs bring to end yet another wonderful day, each and every day.

I don’t think I have ever felt as laid back or chill as I do when we are here and the past two weeks have been so relaxed they seem to have slipped by in my sleep. We moved into an unused space that required some cleaning but in between the work and repairs we have enjoyed some of the best days this year and no matter what happens it’s always very calm and quiet here and the chirping of birds or the rustling of palm trees in the crisp sea breeze is about all you ever notice.

With 2.5 acres and limited buildings there is plenty of open space and there are a number of walking paths that lead to the waters edge where you can actually dive into the ocean head first from less than 10 feet above sea level. Many of the other cliff resorts are much higher up and not so well suited to afternoon dips or snorkeling in the warm waters of the Caribbean but you can experience some of the best cliff side snorkel trips in Negril right from easy to use ladders that you find on both ends of the property.

There is a coral reef which runs just off the Negril cliffs that starts in the waters off of Heart Beat and on any morning you may find Jamaican divers swimming by with spear guns in hand in search of the catch of the day. If you don’t see any divers you are guaranteed a show from the local fisherman who take off from the small fishing boat fleet on the beaches near Mi Yard and head out to the deeper reef far outshore in their motor boats or the lone fisherman who paddles by in his dugout boat and pulls fish traps just outside the mooring buoys along the coastline. It’s a cool way to start your day by watching them run their fish nets or pull the traps in the early morning sun which you can watch rise up over Long Bay Beach and the Westmoreland mountains between Negril and Montego Bay.

We have been snorkeling about as often as we can and even our four year old Robbie has enjoyed the beautiful sealife that can be found just a few feet from shore. We have seen dozens of different tropical fish including some pretty cool porcupine fish and multi colored damsel fish plus sea urchins, sea cucumbers and even a pretty big stingray feeding in the muddy sand bar. It’s almost never ending as each new day bring something new into the area and we have something new to discover just about every morning. I think mornings before 8am are the best time to jump in the water as the sun is about in the perfect position for taking well lighted photos and everything seems to be awake and feeding.

There are all types of wildlife in the natural environment around you and you can listen to birds sing almost all day long. Right now there is a pair of Jamaican Orioles weaning two chicks who hop around on palm tree branches begging food from mommy and picking through the beds of soft grass on ground below their home. An Orangequit has been flying onto the porch and grabbing tufts of thatch from the roof for the past week while building a nearby nest. There are a number of date palms in the yard which shed a sweet date that hermit crabs just love to eat. You can find them at all times of the day just about all over the yard but at night there are hundreds of them crawling around under the two largest trees. If you dare to pick one up carefully you’ll find an assortment of colors and shells and they can reach in size up to the palm of your hand. Every morning the White Crown Pigeons that live high up in the almond tree drop down on the cliffs to sip rainwater alongside the rock doves and occasional egret. The Jamaican almond trees shed seeds year round and you can actually crack them open and eat the almonds inside although it requires a bit more work then they are worth unless you know the trick to cracking them on the seam. The yard also has a number of ackee trees as well a coconut palms, sea grapes and spanish limes.

Heart Beat remains simple and there is no spa or restaurant operating on site although you can have a massage in your room or seaside with a local massage therapist. For dining there is Jacko and Jennys Restaurant across the street which offers a great selection of Jamaican and international dishes. From french toast and scrambled eggs to ackee and saltfish, brown stew chicken and fried fish with bammy they offer a variety of menu items that should satisfy anyone. At night you can find some of the best jerk chicken on the West End at Tayons where you can buy a cold Red Stripe and shoot a game of pool with the local crew. Tayons is open until 2am and plays a great selection of reggae and dancehall favorites on the sound system that I truly enjoy. I have heard some complaints about the loud music by those looking for sleep early in the evening but Negril is a late night place and you’ll hear music all over town until the early morning hours.

There a number of different room types available for rent from the small cottage with kitchenette and bath called Calypso where we lived to the seaside pillar rooms which feature beautiful hand finished wood work throughout and a porch facing those picture perfect sunsets up to the larger unit which sleeps up to 7 people in beds made from bamboo. All of the rooms have funky names to fit the theme such as Dancing Dolphin or Lovers Rock and come complete with mini fridge, screened windows and ornate ceiling fans. The rooms have comfortable beds and basic furnishings with a rustic homey feel to them and they are meticulously maintained by the kindest people you’ll ever meet.

The pillar rooms are very popular for romantic getaways for newlywed couples on honeymoon in Negril on their Jamaica vacation but are equally as popular with Jamaicans from as far as Kingston looking for that perfect Negril weekend. The seaside apartments in the main building are one bedroom units with full kitchen and private bath plus ceiling fans and screened windows which face Long Bay and Negril Beach for a great view of the bay and beach area with the mountains in the backdrop. You can join the local fisherman who walk out to the point of the cliffs nearby and bait fish with handlines each late afternoon for a beer and conversation or you can just sit and watch them from your veranda.

Heart Beat is a $2 taxi ride from everything in Negril yet inside the walls it often feels like your miles away from everything which is exactly how you want it to be sometimes. If you are looking for a romantic seaside getaway in Negril then you must check them out on the Heart Beat website or facebook page to arrange your vacation.

]]> Black River Safari and Irie Tours is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

No matter how often I find myself on a Black River Safari it is a treat to me each and every time. I had the pleasure of taking Angus and Kelley on a tour of the South Coast of Jamaica with stops at Black River and YS Falls. Our trip to Black River from Negril was short and sweet and we were at the Black River tour location before lunch.

We got the full tour with tons of information about the local ecology and the Black River ecosystem. The big draw on the river are the Jamaican Crocodile which can only be found here in Black River in small numbers. These rare animals spend their days cruising the rivers in search of food which often comes in the form of chicken carcasses tossed out by the Black River safari guides and tour operators who keep the crocs well fed.

The crocodiles in Black River are so tame and predictable that tour guides will often jump in the water or at least hand feed them for your enjoyment. There are sections of the river that are crocodile free where visitors can take a swim in the cool clear waters of the Black River. The river is called black because of the peat settled on the bottom but the river water is actually pretty clear although they say you should filter it before drinking.

A Black River and YS Falls tour is a wonderful way to spend the day traveling the lesser developed section of the island and the South Coast of Jamaica on a full day tour with stops in Scotts Cove or Middle Quarters for fresh fried fish and bammy or delicious hot boiled “peppa shrimp” and a real taste of Jamaica.

Purple Cattleya Orchid at Black River Jamaica

Irie Pontoon Riverboat Tours on Black River Jamaica

White Egret birds and Jamaican Wildlife at Black River Safari

Santa Cruz Mountains from Black River Safari Tour

Red mangrove at Black River Safari Tour Guides

Black River Dread Locks in Red Mangrove Tree

Jamaican Water Lily on Black River Safari

Black River Basin

Jamaican Crocodile with mouth wide

Angus and Kelley with JamaicaMAX Tours

]]> Affordable vacation beach rentals at Westport Cottages in Negril Jamaica is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

Finding vacation beach rentals or just simply a room in Negril is easy enough but finding a cool spot to chill by the beach at an affordable rate year round is a trick unless of course you know Joseph at Westport Cottages right on Norman Manley Blvd. If you know about his international hostel and affordable beach accommodations just across the street from Negril Beach then you know where to go for one of the best values in an inexpensive room in Negril.

Budget travelers from around the world call Westport home during their stay in Jamaica and many have returned annually for many years. Some are simple backpackers looking for a cheap room near the beach for the night but many others are long term guests visiting Jamaica and the Negril area for a month or more. Still others are simply budget conscious vacationers looking for quick easy access the the world famous 7 Mile Negril Beach with it’s pristine white sand , crystal blue seas and year round sunshine.

No matter where they are from I have met some of the most interesting people while staying at Westport Cottages and it seems something about the place attracts an eclectic if not fun crowd of guests to get to know. The place is quiet and clean with daily room preps from none other than “Sista” the head of housekeeping and grounds care. She’s a kind honest woman who makes sure you sleep on clean sheets and a well kept room.

The rooms are rather basic and just what you need if you plan on spending most of your time actually visiting Negril and the beach. If you looking for a plush air conditioned place with tv and lots of other stuff then look elsewhere. If you are looking for an inexpensive beach rental nearby Negril Beach with a laid back and super cool atmosphere then call Joseph at Westport Cottages or use the Contact Us page for more details on where to stay in Negril Beach.

Rooms for rent in Negril Beach at Westport Cottages

Shared kitchen area at Westport Cottages

]]> First Annual Negril Seafood Festival by WoW Negril is a post from: Jamaica Vacations

We had the 1st Annual Negril Seafood Festival here on Easter Sunday and it was a huge success with loads of great food and presentations from local resorts and top restaurants. The seafood festival was a great idea and well executed by the team at WoWNegril.com and it seems sure we’ll see many more of these in the years to come.

The idea was to have a number of top resorts and restaurants to have a cook off and other competitions thoughout the day as they displayed their talents and services for all to see. The event had a number of great display booths featuring the wide range of seafood delicacies available in Negril Jamaica and there was enough food and drink to go around for everyone.

I had a wonderful time walking around and tasting the many wonderful treats being prepared on site by the master chefs of Negril and it was an awesome experience just to see and smell everything. By the days end I had my share of seafood and drink and I certainluy look forward to the next event. Too bad you can’t have these like once a month because it was really nice to see so much on display.

Entry to Negril Seafood Festival

Negril Seafood Festival at Wayz Beach

Push Cart Display at Negril Seafood Festival

Peppa Shrimp by Push Cart Restaurant at Negril Seafood Festival

Ice Carvings at Negril Seafood Festival

More ice carving at the Negril Seafood Festival

Serving up the fish at Negril Seafood Festival

Jamaican Style Fish Fry